La Cravate
Origins of the neckties has its roots in military history.
Dating back 1000 years in Ancient Chinese militia and soldiers of the Roman empire. Depicted in paintings and statues, soldiers wore wrapped neck cloth. The neck tie was possibly used as a form of protection of the neck during battle, it equally could have been a badge of honour, as neck ties aren’t present in other historical armies. It was adopted by French rulers such as Louis 14th and later UK rulers began conforming to this piece of cloth. The tie’s strikingness visibly trickled down, becoming a stylish accessory. The trend clearly signified wealth and status amongst the ruling class. Thus the meaning of the tie, has always represented power and masculinity.
Today particular trends are often introduced during fashion week and if not worn by celebrities, they’re adopted by influencers. It used to be that at a subsequent time, the general public would become accustomed to trends due to the emulation in fast fashion brands. This is how the tailoring business in the industry grew between the 12th and 14th century, with the tie as the main accessory bringing the suit together.
Here are some ways the tie can be deconstructed and adopted by none other than todays trendy woman!
Bow Ties
In this day and age there’s nothing wrong with picking and styling from mens wardrobes. Androgynous dressing is a more widely accepted concept and the fashion industry has been exploring this phenomena since forever ago.
Not everyone is comfortable enough to tap into a more androgynous sense of style. If you’re looking for ideas that do not require sacrificing your femininity, the bow tie is a cute fashionable way to maintain the feminine aspect in your outfit, when adding a traditionally male accessory.
Bows are commonly seen on women’s clothing, accessories and hairstyles. The devil is in the details when you’re pairing pieces together. How you actually tie your bow, will allow you to remain in your femininity whilst incorporating traditionally masculine accessories. Some bows suggest saccharine, girlishness or a preppy style. All in all bows can tie an outfit together.
Outerwear & the Tie
Feminists work on fashion has largely been critical of fashion as a tool of male domination. Prodigious changes both in the popularity of fashionable dress (Tailoring) and in “English masculinity wrought by the 19th century” created developments in modern consumer culture. Clothing became a powerful tool to communicate ones social status amongst others. And men have used clothing pieces like ties, blazers and trousers to construct their gendered identities and affirm masculine ideals.
During Milan fashion week Pierpaolo Piccioli dedicated his Valentino AW23 collection to “the gender fluid zeitgeist” with looks that dissected what is traditionally associated with mens formal wear — black ties. He explains “I wanted to work on the social meanings you give to things. It’s about the meaning of the tie, which is about power and masculinity. If you give this symbol to everyone, you take away the social meaning.”
This is exactly the aim of this look that incorporates ties and blazer in a woman’s outfit. It’s easier to see your feminine shape when you replace your oversize blazer, for one with a cinched waist to pair with your tie. Power shoulders in women fashion never seems to go out of style. Accentuating your shapely shoulders whilst enhancing a better view of your waist. To stay stylish, try buying a vest that goes perfectly with your favourite tie.
Skirt skirt & the Tie
Considering a tie covers a specific asset of the female body, thus conveying solemnity and our aim is playing with formal clothing not fully going corporate. There are other body parts you can reveal if you wish to maintain charisma. Pairing your formal tie incorporated look with a skirt will allow you to still feel as feminine as always.
The sexiest way and I quote Chaka Khan to “ feel like a lady” is to add heeled boots to your outfit as, “high-heeled shoes are associated with femininity and sensuality”. You allow others to focus on the only thing longer than your tie… your legs!
There’s an unwritten rule for women when dressing, we are only allowed to centre one of our assets, otherwise we’re quickly negatively and sexually labelled. Muccia Prada has set the tone for pairing mini skirts with shirt/ blazer combo and accentuating legs for a few seasons now and has yet to fail. If you’re trying to look professional for work to avoid exaggerating sex specific aspects of female gait, you could wear a longer pleated skirt with your heels.
Oversize Style & the Tie
Ever since our childhood, women are consistently reminded to think about the image they express themselves through their clothes. There’s this same intensity encouraged with formal attire, especially with ties. In schools we were often stopped and straightened up when it came to the appearance of a relaxed tie.
With this look you don’t actually need to tie your tie in the correct way. You’ve seen how sexy men look when their tie is loose! This cool yet alluring look is achievable, just don’t tighten that tie all the way up.
Oversize fashion has long made its mark in the fashion industry and I know it has done in your wardrobe, as it has done in mine. Your outfit will be hard to miss as it will literally take up space. Baggy formal wear makes for a fresh take on 9–5 dressing, and brands like Balenciaga have mastered the juxtaposition of formal wear matched with casual wear.
Punk Style & the Tie
You don’t have to save your ties for important business meetings. You can incorporate them into your everyday looks when you want to channel your inner rockstar. The punk-rock movement ally, Vivienne Westwood’s label combines modernity with pirate and punk inspirations. The use of the tie on the women looks was very prominent theme in her shows. In the early 2000’s artists like Avril Lavigne wore ties pairing with studded belts and suspenders. Today Gen Z have been sprinkling many aspects of Y2K style and they have yet to fail when it comes to reinventing punk today.
Punk is expression of rebellion but while punk fashion may be all the rage, the rebellious spirit and willingness to question traditional conventions is what women have been battling against since forever.
Today you can pick and choose what fits your identity without committing to the core values, quite like you can wear a tie without subscribing to gender norms. Simply that you felt edgy that day. It’s not a look that you see very often nowadays, so you’re sure to stand out in a crowd.
Accessories & the Tie
There is no limit when experimenting with your garms, neither is there with accessorising down.
A tie will make you look professional all on its own, so you don’t have to wear your hair up or neutral make up in order to be taken seriously.
There are clever techniques that can be implemented in a regular formal tie incorporated look. Such as layering and accessorising.
For layering, wearing layered waistband trousers or an octave asymmetric pleated skirts, turtleneck under dress shirts. Are a few ways to remove attention from the idea of wearing a tie in your everyday look, and get people wandering why you have two shirts on in summer. This is something Y/project is exceptional at doing time and time again.
Accessorising can be hard, but not when taking notes from Rihanna. She has worn many a suit and her stylists reinvent her coolness every time. Swap formal shoes for trainers. Belts for fanny packs (seen at her former brand Fenty). Lastly exaggerating with jewellery details adds a female touch.
Styling the Tie
Instead of focusing on how to feminize traditionally male formal wear. One can step even further outside the box by not necessarily using womenswear pieces and accessories but selecting more versatile garments. Deconstructing formal wear entirely with “a better garment questioning the conventional definition of femininity” — Bettter Us Manifesto
Changing and replacing the blazer for a completely different outerwear piece. Jeans rather than traditional trousers. Allowing your personality to translate through a visual representation therefore defining ones self.
Formalwear
In the United Kingdom the tie has been kept as a key part of school uniform and work wear. This idea of conformity is often justified as a means to unite what could easily be segregated communities. The essence of not being able to differentiate wealth from poverty is what schools taught us as children in school concerning “British Values”. However the uniform in itself does not prevent children from experiencing bullying there are many factors. Uniform is supposed to “strengthen the students’ sense of belonging to their school and pride in being part of the school community. Improve equality and reduce inconsistencies. Reduce the need to challenge students over inappropriate dress.”
My personal experience having school uniform for my 11 years and a tie in secondary school for 5 years is that I can no longer stand the sight of formal wear. However a Parisian babe might have a slight fantasy for being tied down. The french do love uniformity, sombre colours and looks matching accessories. After adopting an extremely casual and athleisure aesthetic as a form of rebellion in the work place, revisiting formal wear on this project has been a trip.
